Installation Guidelines

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  • Installation of solid ¾” random width, re-claimed antique or traditional new, solid plank flooring from K.D. Woods Company essentially requires the same tools and practices as followed in the installation of “standard”, nail-down wood flooring products.
  • Unless otherwise specified, our flooring is shipped in random widths of unequal linear feet each. Installation requires some thought but essentially only requires that the installer lay rows of the prevalent widths more frequently than the widths of which you have less flooring. A tally with the linear foot quantity of each width is provided with an order, when shipped, that may be an aid for flooring layout.
  • We kiln dry our products to, under 10% moisture content, typically 6-9%, prior to milling. This puts the flooring in the generally accepted mid-range of moisture content prior to installation nation wide.
  • Job site conditions are of importance, as the flooring may lose moisture or gain moisture dependent upon these conditions. It is not recommended that solid ¾” flooring, be installed in any below grade application or where any moisture intrusion is likely. The job site must be dry and the moisture content of the plywood sub-floor should be within 2% of the moisture content of the wood flooring. If the deviation is greater, (assuming job site is dry) acclimation of the flooring to the job site conditions is essential until balance is achieved.
  • Generally speaking, all moisture emitting trades (plastering, concrete, masonry etc.) should be through with their work and the products dry and cured. The job site atmosphere should be stabilized or conditioned with the cooling or heating systems, depending on season, operating for 2 weeks or more prior to flooring installation.
  • Random width planks in the 3”-6” range should be “blind” nailed through the tongue every 4”-8”, into a minimum 5/8” thick plywood sub-floor securely fastened to floor joists or dry concrete slab, leaving ½” clearance at walls and posts to allow for flooring movement seasonally. Red rosin paper or 15 pound felt paper is commonly used between sub-floor and flooring but should not be considered an effective moisture barrier. Some face nailing or hand nailing is generally needed to start the first few rows and to finish the installation of the last few rows. In widths of, 7” and wider, face (surface) nailing or gluing planks directly to sub floor with urethane adhesive is suggested in addition to “blind” nailing as noted above, to control seasonal movement to a degree and to help boards remain flat. End-matching is available upon request.
  • Generally, the flooring is sanded and finished after all trim and cabinetry is installed and painted. Any holes, fractured knots or voids can be filled at this time if desired. Following standard floor sanding procedures, we suggest 2 passes with floor sander, (or buffer with abrasive pad for “distressed” grades) beginning with 60-80- grit and ending with 100-120 grit paper, followed by a careful vacuuming and tacking. Floor finish of your choice can now be applied, with the finish type dependent upon use, area flooring is used in and desired appearance.
  • Maintain wood flooring by providing walk-off mats at entries, use of felt protectors on all furniture legs and regular vacuuming. Wipe all spills promptly. Most polyurethane finishes allow for damp wiping for periodic cleaning of dirt buildup. Please follow wood floor cleaner manufacturers instructions for cleaning.
  • All wood expands and contracts seasonally dependent upon ambient humidity. The flooring planks that lay tightly together in the summer may develop some gaps between the boards during the dry months or heating season.
  • We suggest that the practices of the wood flooring professional you have selected for the installation and finishing, with specific knowledge of local conditions, favorite finish types etc. may differ from these guidelines and should be given due consideration.

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